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| He was too busy to take a photo... |
OK, as always happens - he forgot 3 sides of different bracings. It is really hard not to forget a side. I found them as I started my search for some small hohles. Fixed them with the TIG and about 130 ampere !
For welding the 1mm gussets to the 2mm tube I only used 90A.
Don´t let me forget to tell you, that it is mandatory to drill a hohle (6mm) in eache tube, which is welded thight at every end.
If you miss it, you will get a blow up in your molten bath while welding. The air inside the tube will heat up, generate a higher pressure and at the most weak area of the tube the pressure find a exit: Through the molted bath while your are welding.
After the second time I got such a blow up my hart missed a beat and I start investigate what I have done wrong.
While I climbed through the frame I closed all the hohles I found of the break lines, gas lines and what else needs hohls... It is better to drill new ones even if they might be on the same place.
See some photos of the welded chassis:
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| Seen from the top it looks not as a lot was done... |
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| The rear part. |
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| At the red arrows the angle was to tight to weld. I have to take care of rust protection there. |
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| The front part. Less work as on the rear... |
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| I added this gusset while I turned the chassis up side down... |
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| Bildunterschrift hinzufügen |
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| The rear diagonal from down under... |
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| Bildunterschrift hinzufügen |
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| The rear upper damper mount. Martyn does a lot more here, but I am running out of sheet metal... |
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| The front damper mount dosen´t look too bad, so I decided to go a easy way... |
As our winter is more warm than our last summer, I am not forced to have a winter break.
If some cold weeks will treat me, I have mounted a solar thermal collector on my garage to heat it up - shure, if the sun is shining.
Too much luxus makes you soft ! ;-)
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| It was a bargin... |
Back to the Marcos.
As you saw, the tubes are already coverd with rust again. We, me and the sand blaster, expected this and arranged a second date to do a light sand blast over the chassis to remove the rust and the - how do you call it: welding dust ? If the welding seams a sand blasted it is much better to add a anti-rust paint.
I have chosen the anti-rust paint "Brantho Korrux 3in1", which has to be added by brush 2 or 3 times. This paint can penetrate small rust points in the pores.
I read a lot of anti-rust tests in the web:
There only one crux for you: They are in German. You have to use the auto translation function of google.
My result was:
- Sand balsting everthing which is possible
- Paint with Brantho Korrux 3in1 for 3 times
- All hollow spaces sealed with a wax
- Drill a hohle in every tight hollows to fill in wax
This will be my next job after it is nicely warm in the garage...
Hey you old screwer, your english is not the yellow from the egg, is it??
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