When I got the car, I did not see a return line for the fuel. As I had some bad memories about fuel vapor bubbles - they always occure in the most worse moment.
Where ?
You are waiting on the starting line until the checkered flag will be rised, ready to take off - and what happend: the engine stutters and did not rev up...
The old hands who are growed up with carbs have a smile in their face and asked you about a retun line for the fuel...
What ...?
Ok, I have to add a second fuel line in the same size: 8mm copper.
You have to add a restriction of 1-2mm in the return line after you branch out to the carb to have the correct pressure at the carb. Thats all.
I used some plastic P-clips to mount the lines.
At the rear end it is relative easy - The fuel pipe has to enter the trunk, one will be connected to the fuel pump, the return line be connected directly in the upper area of the fuel tank. I will use a screw joint next to the fuel level sensor.
At the front end I have to mount the engine first to get a feeling how to mount the fuel lines, the filter and the connection to the carb.
The break lines have to be exchanged cause all of them are made in copper. This is not allowed in Germany. It has to be steel or Kunifer - a copper-nickel-ferric pipe with the approval of the German TÜV. I used Kunifer pipes for break and clutch.
4,75mm for the break and 6,35mm for the clutch. The bigger diameter is for a low pressure drop in the line, so the clutch will be easy to press and release.
I bought raw lines and crimped the fittings with a tool from Förch.
Bending nice curves is not so easy. There are a lot of tools which promise you how easy it will work but bending Kunifer pipes over your tumbs is the only way I could manage it.
In the padal box I have to mount a bracket to fix the three lines where they connect to the braided flexible lines.
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| Easy to crimp with a hydraulic unit... |
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